If you have one, don't use it!
(If you are of the "tl;dr" type, scroll down to the section titled "The Real Problem with this radio")
A couple of days ago an "interesting" mobile transceiver crossed my path - the SocoTran ST-7900D. (This radio is also sold under different brands and names, including the "QYT KT-7900D".)
I say "interesting" - but what I really mean is "scary" - for anyone who ends up using this radio unawares!
Note: There is a follow-up to this article describing a 2 meter/222 MHz low-pass filter linked here.
This radio is billed as a "quad band" radio with its frequency coverage being listed as follows:
- 136-174 MHz: This includes 2 meters, plus lots of other things.
- 220-270 MHz: This includes the 1-1/4 meter band (a.k.a. the "222 MHz" band).
- 350-390 MHz: Used for military comms. - There are no U.S. Amateur bands in this frequency range.
- 400-480 MHz: This includes the 70cm amateur band.
Using the radio:
As is typical for inexpensive Chinese radios, the manual isn't very good - but it's "less bad" than many I've seen, but this isn't much help against the radio's shortcomings.
Problems with the menu system:
The menu system does not appear to be well thought-out. Here are a few examples:
- Similar items are not necessarily grouped together. If you want to set transmit offset, subaudible tone, offset direction, power, etc. you must awkwardly jump around between 10s of menu items to do this. On the test radio, the front-panel knob (the one on the right) didn't seem to reliably change the menu item number up/down so I had to use the up-down button on the microphone or look up the menu item in the manual and enter its number on the microphone.
- The menu selection may not start at the current setting. If you were to set the subaudible tone to 100.0 Hz and then later change it to, say, 123.0 Hz, you would go into the menu and see it at 100.0 Hz. However, when you pressed the menu button again to allow the parameter to be changed it will start at 77.0 Hz - the "first" tone in the list, rather than where it had previously been set, requiring you to go through the list again. For menu items with only a few selections this isn't too bad, but for something like the subaudible tone that has dozens of options this can be a pain!
- Menu settings to not take effect until you enter them. If you go to the squelch setting in the menu, you hit "menu" again and can change the setting - but it doesn't actually take effect until you press "menu" again to save it. In other words, to try several squelch settings you have to go back-and-forth several times.
- By strictly following the manual's instructions it does not seem possible to save a current frequency and its settings (tone, offset, etc.) into a memory. Perhaps there is some permutation of buttons that allows this, but the manual is not helpful on this point.
Receive sensitivity and "desense":
Two radios were tested - we'll call them #188 and #198 - and the results were very consistent. The sensitivity of this radio on the amateur bands was very good (probably "too good"): At under 0.15 microvolts the received signal was at least 12dB SINAD - but this comes at a cost: The receiver is easily overloaded by strong signals on the same "band". Badly, as it so-happens.
This radio was put on the test bench and it was given the "two tone" test in which a signal, modulated with a 1 kHz tone with +/-3 kHz deviation, was fed from a signal generator, through a hybrid combiner and into the receiver at approximately 0.5 microvolts ("almost" full-quieting - approximately 20dB SINAD) and another signal, unmodulated (into the other port of the combiner) was made variable. In this test the "other" (unmodulated) signal was increased until the SINAD of the desired signal dropped below 12dB SINAD - a very obvious degradation. Before we started this test, the "other" signal was checked with a spectrum analyzer to make sure that it was the signal itself and not its noise floor that caused the degradation.
This testing was done with the "other" signal separated from the desired one by 40 kHz (approximately 2 "channels" away), 100 kHz, and 1 MHz - and checked again at 10 MHz. In all cases it was observed that the 1 MHz and 10 MHz "desense" values were pretty much the same, likely indicative of the inherent dynamic range of the signal path.
The results of this testing are as follows:
2 meters, test signal at 146.5 MHz:
- @40kHz separation: >= -60dBm caused noticeable degradation
- @100kHz separation: >= -60dBm caused noticeable degradation
- >=1 MHz separation: >= -44dBm caused noticeable degradation
- @40kHz separation: >= -65dBm caused noticeable degradation
- @100kHz separation: >= -60dBm caused noticeable degradation
- >=1 MHz separation: >= -40dBm caused noticeable degradation
- @40kHz separation: >= -70dBm caused noticeable degradation
- @100kHz separation: >= -65dBm caused noticeable degradation
- >=1 MHz separation: >= -40dB caused noticeable degradation
Interpretations:
In this area, there are quite a few mountaintop repeaters and if such a hypothetical 2-meter repeater were to have an EIRP of 100 watts, it would yield a signal greater than -60dBm within a distance of approximately 20 miles line-of-sight when a receiver was connected to a unity-gain antenna. At 222 MHz and 70cm, the signal levels are similar, the typical repeater antenna's gain compensating for frequency effects. What this means is that if you are listening on a frequency to a weak signal and a repeater a couple of "channels" away were to key up, it is possible that the signal to which you were listening would "disappear" due to receiver desense.
In the case of the ">=1 MHz separation" case, these radios have a very broad receive input filter for each "band" meaning that a 2 meter signal won't particularly bother a 222 MHz or 70cm signal (unless it is very strong) - but any signal in that receiver's "band" coverage can cause issues. For example, if you are listening to a weak-ish signal on 2 meters and a nearby transmitter on 159 MHz were to key up with a strong signal (stronger than -44dBm or so) it would likely cause degradation.
What's worse, there may be several such signals within the radio's currently-selected "band" that could combine their energy. In other words, several such signals anywhere in the 137-174 MHz range would add cumulatively for a total power that could be significantly higher than any single signal.
To be sure, many radios made by the "Big Three" overload easily, but this radio is particularly prone to doing so in an "RF busy" environment where there may be other transmitters within a few 10s of MHz - such as a parade or other public service event.
Finally, one will notice that the "@40kHz" specs degrade with frequency. The reason for this is unclear, but it is suspected that this may be due to limitations in the "all in one" receiver chip related to local oscillator phase noise and/or differences in the dynamic signal handling of this chip's on-board circuitry with respect to frequency.
Remember that the entire receiver ("IF" filtering, amplification, limiting, demodulation) is all done in the digital domain, on the chip with the received signal being digitized at some point: It is likely that signals in close proximity with each other are being handled by different hardware filter types on the chip than widely-spaced signals.
Figure 4: Almost the smallest fan that I've ever seen - but does it do any good? Click on the image for a larger version. |
Interestingly, rather than seeming to generate "intermod" with strong signals within the radio's RF passband where a "new" signal is created out of the combination of several, when overloaded this type of receiver (an all-in-one chip using DSP techniques) seems to just go deaf, so the casual user may not be aware that there is a problem at first.
Output power:
The power output was also pretty close to what it should be. The specifications oddly states "<=25 watts" - and this seems to be true: At 15 volts, the output power was, in fact, a bit over 25 watts, dropping to 10-15 watts at 10 volts, depending on frequency. Aside from the obvious problem with harmonics (mentioned below) that makes the legal use of this radio rather dubious, this wide voltage range (possibly) makes it a useful candidate for battery-powered portable operation - again, if it were actually legal to use on most of its "bands" as-is.
The "cooling fan":
Mentioned several times now is the "cooling fan" - but it may not do much good. Not only is this fan very tiny and incapable of moving much air (and amazingly loud for its size) - but there are some other problems:
- The fan sucks - which is to say that it is set up to draw air through the case and exhaust it out the back - if that were possible: There aren't any vents or holes in the case to allow this. Even if there were holes, drawing air from inside the radio is not the most efficient way to cool nearby components unless airflow is carefully regulated.
- As can be seen in figure 5, most of the hole for the fan is blocked by the aluminum casting and some of the power amplifier components.
Too much microphone gain?
While many inexpensive Chinese radios seem to have low transmit audio, this radio has quite the opposite problem: Even holding the microphone about 2 feet (50cm) away from one's mouth and talking in a normal speaking voice caused the modulation to smash into the clipper pretty hard in both sample radios we tried. (Clipping seems to be set to +/-4kHz when in the default FM "wide" mode.)
To be sure, having a bit too much audio is usually better than having too little, but the mic gain is so "hot" that your voice will sound a bit harsh and compressed - and everyone listening to you on the air will not only be able to hear everything that is going on in the room that you are in, but likely the bodily noises of any creature in your house as well. In any but the quietest vehicle, road noise will be competing strongly with your voice causing challenges with intelligibility.
Unfortunately, there is no menu item to adjust microphone gain, but it should be possible to make a change in the microphone itself to reset the gain to something more sane.
The FM Broadcast receiver:
Like many of these Chinese radios it will also receive FM broadcast stations. For this radio, connecting it to a typical amateur antenna in an area with fairly strong mountaintop transmitters located 15-20 miles (20-30km) away caused the (separate) FM broadcast receiver chip to be overloaded very badly, making it impossible to hear weaker "local" stations in the resulting muck: It took about 30dB of RF attenuation to prevent the "FM broadcast" receiver from being clobbered and for the weaker signals to become audible leading us to believe that, like the main communications-band receivers, the designers likely put way too much gain in the front end.
Modes/situations in which this radio may not work:
This radio appears to be based on the same type of "everything-in-one" chips that the Baofengs are based on - quirks and all. Unfortunately, the nature of these chips - or at least the way that they are configured by the radio's processor - preclude their use in a few situations/modes, such as:
- In areas of very strong adjacent-frequency signals or multiple transmitters - due to easy receiver overload.
- For packet operation - because of slow transmit/receive turn-around time.
- For any sort of DF (Direction Finding) system that uses switched antennas - due to the variable audio phase/delay properties of the receiver - a known problem with the "all in one" receiver chips found on many inexpensive Chinese-made radios.
- Any sort of high-duty cycle operation - due to the tiny heat sink which will get plenty hot, even at "low" power.
Interestingly, the "S" meter on the front panel seems to indicate a 7-bit binary number - possibly from one of the chip's registers - that is proportional to the signal strength, each count being very close to 1dB, making it (potentially) more useful than a typical radios' S-meter.
Unfortunately its range (a bit more than 60dB) may not be entirely usable: It doesn't start indicating meaningful values until the signal is about full quieting (between 0.5 and 1.0 microvolts) and it "pegs" at signal levels that would be commensurate with a transmitter several blocks away - and its update rate is fairly slow.
In other words, it's not useful for weak signals (you'd have to use your ear and listen for quieting for those) or moderately strong signals (e.g. a nearby transmitter) when it comes to direction-finding with a beam - although the latter could be mitigated with an outboard step attenuator.
(I am surprised that this thing doesn't also have a flashlight!)
Having buried the lead, the real problem with this radio is when you use it on-air:
With any inexpensive Chinese radio (or any radio, for that matter) my first inclination is to throw it on the workbench and see how it really performs - which includes checking things like its sensitivity, power output, microphone gain, and spectral purity - and it is this latter point that made us catch our breath - this lesson having been learned when very cheap Chinese radios first appeared on the U.S. market about a decade ago.
The real problem was the actual transmitter specifications: The literature states that spurious and harmonic energy is ">60dB" down - but it is not!
For 70cm, this radio seems to be "Okay" - but for 2 meters the results for this particular radio (let's call it "#198") were terrifying: The 2nd and 3rd harmonics measured both as being as high as -23dBc - the precise values varying quite a bit with supply voltage.
Figure 6: What appears to be the main CPU clock crystal: "If it doesn't fit, just cram it in there!" - but hey, what do you expect for around $70? Click on the image for a larger version. |
Putting this into other numbers: For an output power of 25 watts at 2 meters, this means that the harmonics are approximately 125 milliwatts each - roughly as much power as many handie-talkies produce when set to low power!
As an experiment we did something that we probably should not have done with this radio: We connected this radio to an antenna that is designed for both 2 meters and 70cm and transmitted.
In this case we transmitted on a 2 meter frequency that was 1/3rd of a local UHF amateur repeater located about 20 miles (30km) away on a mountaintop. The result was that the 3rd harmonic was full quieting into that repeater!
If one peruses the FCC rules you will spot FCC §97.307(e). According to that rule, on a 2 meter transmitter of this power class we are allowed no more than 25 microwatts of spurious emission: This radio exceeds that by a factor of approximately 5000 (about 37dB).
Remember: This was the 3rd harmonic of 2 meters which, if you are operating within the 2 meter amateur band, will always land somewhere in the 70cm band - but what about the 2nd harmonic - which is just as strong as the 3rd? This would land somewhere in the 288-296 MHz range which is used for military communications - including aeronautical mobile. What this means is that it is possible that your 2 meter transmissions made with this radio could be heard from, perhaps up to 100 miles away by an aircraft in line-of-sight.
What about 222 MHz?
The situation there isn't quite as bleak as the second harmonic was between 42 and 50dB down - the precise level varying wildly with power supply voltage. Fortunately, any harmonic due to operation in the U.S. 222 MHz band (which covers 222-225 MHz) will land in the 70cm band, but its level will also be a bit high: With 25 watts out on, say, 224.0 MHz the signal at twice this (448.0 MHz) will be around 1.5 milliwatts.
This may not sound like much, but this signal would be easily audible via line-of-sight at a distance of 10-20 miles (15-20km) - and it still can exceed the FCC rules by a factor of 63 (about 18 dB).
"Are they all this way?"
(Updated 4 February, 2019)
Without testing each unit as it comes from the factory this question is impossible to answer, but I was able to obtain another unit (we'll call it "#188") and it was almost as horrifying (e.g. "slightly less terrible") in terms of its spurious output. Because of minor component variations, one can expect an (essentially) unfiltered RF power amplifier to exhibit different properties in terms of spurious output - and these also vary based on temperature and power supply voltage.
I was able to put this radio on the RF bench, connecting it via a 40dB power attenuator (known to be flat within +/-1dB from <1 MHz to 1 GHz) and record spectrum analyzer plots, shown below with comments.
The spectrum analyzer had been calibrated to take the attenuator into account and in the plots below the power of the signals can be read directly as dBm, with "50dBm" (100 watts) being the top line with 10dB vertical divisions.
Testing on the 2 meter band:
- 2nd harmonic @ 289.25 MHz: +16 dBm (40 milliwatts) 41dB above FCC §97.307(e)
- 3rd harmonic @ 433.875 MHz: +11 dBm (13 milliwatts) 36dB above FCC §97.307(e)
- 4th harmonic @ 578.5 MHz: -2dBm (0.63 milliwatts) 23dB above FCC §97.307(e) (This frequency falls within off-air TV channel 32)
Not mentioned previously is the 4th harmonic which, in this case, lands in the UHF TV band. What this means is that transmitting with this radio will likely disrupt nearby off-air viewing of whatever digital TV channel is on that frequency. (Affected off-air TV channel frequencies include channels 31-34 depending on the 2 meter frequency being used.)
How about the top end of the 2 meter band at 148 MHz?
- 2nd harmonic @ 296.0 MHz: +16 dBm (40 milliwatts) 41dB above FCC §97.307(e)
- 3rd harmonic @ 444.0 MHz: +15 dBm (32 milliwatts) 40dB above FCC §97.307(e)
- 4th harmonic @ 592.0 MHz: -5dBm (0.32 milliwatts) 20dB above FCC §97.307(e) (This frequency falls within off-air channel 34.)
Again, we have significant energy in the UHF TV spectrum.
Testing on the 222 MHz band:
- 2nd harmonic @ 448.0 MHz: -2 dBm (32 milliwatts) 23dB above FCC §97.307(e)
- 3rd harmonic @ 672.0 MHz: -20 dBm (0.01 milliwatts) 5dB above FCC §97.307(e)
On 70cm:
Here we have 430 MHz:
Figure 10: Radio #188 again: As you might expect, the harmonics from 70cm are farther down - but still "there". |
Translating the above:
- 2nd harmonic @ 860.0 MHz: -16 dBm (25 microwatts)
Going to the top of the 70cm band we see this:
Figure 11: Radio #188 operating at 450 MHz. Interestingly enough, the 2nd harmonic is worse here than at 430 MHz. |
- 2nd harmonic @ 900.0 MHz: -13 dBm (50 microwatts)
If we were to presume that the power amplifier's "natural" 2nd harmonic energy is -30dBc (and that's being generous!) this tells us that the radio's low-pass filter is attenuating this harmonic by roughly 30dB - not really a very good filter.
But wait - there's more!
While testing the radio at 70cm, I noticed something else: When the radio was keyed up, it would briefly output a wide spectrum of spurious signals all over the place. This lasted, perhaps, 50 milliseconds - but it was definitely observable, as this "max hold" plot shows:
The spectrum plot in Figure 12 looks frightening - particularly the brief "spur" at marker #2 which landed in the middle of the UHF TV spectrum (or in the public safety band in some parts of the U.S.) with a power level of nearly 100 milliwatts! Also visible is a sprinkling of other signals - including a rather strong-ish signal in the 360 MHz area that has a power output of roughly +8dBm (approximately 6 milliwatts) - in the middle of the military comms band.
Practically speaking, such a brief "burst" isn't likely to cause much of a problem and quite a few older VHF/UHF transceivers made by "reputable" companies did this - but it is interesting nonetheless.
Comment: No transmit testing was done in the "300 MHz" range as we have no intention of using it there.
"But there's an FCC logo on the radio!"
If you look at the radio and its packaging, you will find an FCC logo: If you think that this automatically means that the radio is "OK to use", you would be wrong.
No matter what the radio's specs say, what the reviews say, or what others say, if you are using a radio that, for some reason, does not meet the legal requirements - YOU are responsible, even if you didn't know that it doesn't pass muster!
Why is this? Because you agreed to this when you got your license.
In other words, the onus is ultimately on you to make sure your gear is working properly - not the manufacturer - and if you happen to buy something that doesn't meet specs and get into trouble, it's ultimately your fault. Now that you have read this, if you use one of these radios on 2 meters or 222 MHz, you have no excuse at all.
Practically speaking, the FCC certification does not mean that amateur gear is actually checked to see if its transmitter has spurious outputs or not: If a piece of gear is checked at all it's usually just to see if it meets FCC Part 15 rules which typically cover spurious radiation caused by the receiver, its computer, or other circuitry - but not the transmitter, which is covered by Part 97, and being that amateurs are licensed under part 97, you are ultimately responsible for making sure that the gear that you are using is in compliance.
Having said that, anyone could make something and simply slap an FCC logo on it!
After pointing out the terrible harmonics produced by this radio someone commented to me: "Wow! It's a tri-bander any time you key up on 2 meters!"
Why did they do this?
It's cheaper, of course!
In "older" radios it was common to have a separate power amplifier for each band - each with its own filter - but with today's inexpensive power RF MOSFETs a single amplifier like the one in this radio can work over a very wide range of frequencies - but this means that you must switch the appropriate filter inline for the band being used.
This switching is typically done with RF PIN diodes and/or relays - but either one of these options (particularly PIN diodes) gets to be pretty expensive (adding a couple of dollars to the bill of material) when you get into the 10s of watts at UHF frequencies. Because this radio was "built to a price" it is almost inevitable that something was left out - and among those things that was omitted was proper low-pass filtering of the transmitter!
If you have one of these radios and wish to operate it legally on 2 meters or 222 MHz, you would need to do the following:
- For 2 meters, you use an outboard low-pass filter that will attenuate the 2 meter 2nd and 3rd harmonics by at least 40dB.
- For 222 MHz, you use an outboard low-pass filter that will attenuate the 222 MHz 2nd harmonic by least 30dB.
Note: There is a follow-up to this article describing a 2 meter/222 MHz low-pass filter linked here.
In short:
the 2 meter or 222 MHz bands.
If this isn't what you had in mind when you got the radio I suggest that you consider getting a refund from the seller as it is "not suitable for its intended use."
Answer to the question in Figure 1: Actually, two of the frequencies shown - 245.625 and 350.025 MHz are not amateur frequencies!
This page stolen from ka7oei.blogspot.com
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Thanks for all of this detailed review mate! Great job. I tested on of these Chinese craps too in lab and results were a bit better > but also far bellow acceptable level in terms of harmonics, spurious sigs etc.
ReplyDeleteAnyway we tested this unit using 2m / 1,25m and 70cm separate 9-poles BPF in between antenna and radio and finally it was usable.
So I am recommending (if someone already got it) to make output BPF...
Best regards,
Petr
Hello, which band pass filters did you use?
DeleteI posted a follow-up article to this describing a low-pass filter that was sufficient to allow operation on 2 meters and/or 222 MHz and it may be found here: https://ka7oei.blogspot.com/2019/02/a-2-band-filter-for-st-7900d.html
DeleteWith the filter in place you can operation ONLY 144/222 MHz, but you'd need to remove it for 70cm: If you run ONLY 70cm, the built-in filter is more or less sufficient on its own.